Posts by Icefire

Did they replace the input shaft bearing as well? Or could it be the throwout bearing? The ISB is quite difficult to replace (requires opening the transmission).

Magst du die 3D Scan Daten uns zur Verfügung stellen?

Was ich immer mal gerne machen wollte, war ein "Sunny-Konfigurator", in den man virtuell an einem 3D Modell unterschiedliche Farben, Spoiler und Tieferlegungen ausprobieren kann, um sich so sein Traum Sunny zu konfigurieren.

Die Programmierung könnte ich machen, aber zum 3D Modellieren fehlt mir das Talent.

Damals war ich Student und hatte noch viel Zeit. Ich war damals aber im Ausland und konnte keine Messungen vornehmen, daher habe ich mir mit Bildern behelfen müssen. Ein 3D Scan ist natürlich viel besser als Datengrundlage.

Mal gespannt, was Du daraus machst!

That's a great artwork inside the bonnet! Love the sun rays and the angel shaped cloud.

You are quite lucky, the body of your car seems to be in outstanding condition.

Bad news is that your power steering is likely scrap. The boot on the power steering looks torn, probably has been like that for longer. Dirt probably entered the steering rack, damaging the seals of the power steering hydraulics. When pressure is applied it will keep leaking, even if you replace the boot (which I still recommend doing).

You have three and a half options:

- replace the power steering with a rebuilt part.

- replace rack, steering column with the manual rack. Results in better feeling for the road and you can save the gym membership fees

- use a different belt to disable the power steering pump. This is the cheap version.

- try oil leak stop additives and fix the boot. if you're lucky it will stop the leak.

To remove the cowl plastic screws, just use a thin flathead screwdriver to lever the screw part of the clip out of the bottom part. Even if they are threaded they will still come out.

Don't worry about breaking these, they are still available new and quite cheap. Once you got the plastic screw out, you can remove the lower clip part easily.

Remove the bonnet first,you will have much easier access.

Also, the wiper arms need to be removed. Pop the plastic cover and use a 12mm socket to remove the wiper arm locking nut. Use a marker to remember the position of the wiper arm on the windshield (since there's some play mark the bottommost and the topmost position).

Did you also remove the two 10mm bolts underneath the bumper? The one on the metal link piece is usually quite rusty, use a wrench to told the link piece in place, and use rust penetrator.

The Hayashis are sick vintage wheels and would be a perfect fit. They are quite popular as well, so even if they are expensive they can be sold again for decent bucks.

My 86 came with them on the front and I really like the look. It's not a Sunny but these cars are from a similar era so you can get the idea.

From factory these Nissan wheels should be silver; you could also repaint them in silver if the dark color bugs you.

We are all rather OEM factory look nerds so we won't be able to give you much advice. Sorry I prefer the rims you already have. They are in fact a hard to find factory option and look pretty cool already in my opinion.

For these 80ies cars it's super difficult to find fitting modern wheels. In my humble opinion, most modern wheels on an 80ies car look odd. I therefore recommend to go with period correct wheels, you should be able to find plenty old school wheels in Japan. My Toyota 86 is no exception, people nowadays spends lots of money to get option wheels from back in the day. In good condition they sell for high prices.

You can browse old magazines to find the hot stuff from back in the day and see if there's something to your liking.

That surprises me, I thought Delphi is a trustworthy company. Oh well. With such a rare car it happens from time to time that the stuff doesn't fit. Do you mind sharing the Delphi part numbers of the items you received?

If the control arms don't fit, you can also only replace the ball joint and bushings. In fact, I never replace the bushings, because the original Nissan quality usually outlasts anything not OEM. I only replace the ball joint. You can easily do it with an hydraulic press, or drive over to your local machine shop to have them insert the new ball joints into the control arm.

Regarding the inner tie rod, a tie rod is broken when it has play. When you have everything assembled jack up the front wheels, and try to wiggle the wheel (first, grab it at the 12 and 6 o'clock position, and then on the 3 and 9 o'clock position). Try to see if you have any play at all.a worn out inner tie rod manifests itself with play in the 3-9 o'clock position. The friction when moving the rod in the ball joint can vary on grease amount, temperature and dirt. Of course it shouldn't be seized but moving freely is ok.

Nicely done! These sway bar link nuts are a bit annoying, I always use a second spanner to counter from the inside, and if that doesn't work I just cut them off with an angle grinder.

I hope you didn't need your car to go to work? At 0600 the mind is exhausted and it's easy to make mistakes. Be careful.

The chassis of your B12 looks great but there's a tiny bit of rust behind the front strut (behind the brake tube). Take the opportunity to seal that up.

I wrote a writeup a few years ago, you can use Google translate in Chrome browser, or just look at the pictures.

How to change the CV boots

E brake goes to the rear wheels so not useful for the front wheels

Get a sturdy 32mm deep socket, and use a long breaker bar. I use these steel ceiling support rods. Anything long hollow made out of steel will work.

Get someone to push the brake with full force (counterbalance yourself using the steering wheel) and crack open that 32mm nut. The brakes are sufficient for this job, don it many times.

Afterwards, open then two 17mm bolts at the shock mount. They are adjustable, so mark their position to avoid a steering adjustment.

Then you can take the axle out. Cable tie them to the chassis and you have clearance to the ball joint nut.

Reassemble with the right torque.

The bonnet is attached to the hinges using body sealer glue, remove all four bolts, and then push the bonnet up, beyond the "maximum". That will break the glue. Do it with another person so that you don't risk it falling down.

Ein B12 California, etwa 500m von meinem Zuhause entfernt. Scheint gut gepflegt zu sein.

Ich hatte das hier in meinem Honda. Bauanleitung aus dem Honda Insight Forum, mit spezieller Software. Das Teil konnte wirklich alles über ODB Diagnose auslesen.

Hybridakku Spannung 165V, 4°C Batterietemperatur, 32% geladen.

Wenn der Motor lief konnte man auch das Kraftstoffverhältnis (Afr) und die Dauer des Einspritzvorganges überprüfen (Fin).

Absolut coole Zusatzanzeige.

This is my old B12 with 35mm lowering springs from Weitec, and 14" rims. I also put a nice bodykit and the US corner lights. In my opinion, this was a perfect combination. Still comfortable to drive but looks better than original.

Cheers!
@lighty I think 8000 or 6000 refers to the spring rate. Outside of Germany this is a common way to express the stiffness of lowering springs.

kiwi: In Germany, we can only used lowering springs that are certificed by the Germany TÜV so our options are limited. We install whatever we can get, and usually pick branded springs (e.g. H&R, Weitec). These are usually not easy to find outside of Europe, so I would just install whatever you get. Don't go too low, and don't pick too large rims (I recommend 15" wheels at most).

In Germany, lowering springs usually measure the lowering in mm. We usually pick 25-35mm lowering.

Your tie end rods need replacement Also, what happend to you catalyzer?

About the parts in your cart:

- don't bother about the inner tie rods, I've never seen them wear out on a B12.

- sway bar links I would only replace once they break. Once they break just remove the broken parts until the replacement arrives.

- the front torque strut frequently breaks so that is a good idea.

The B12 suspension is very robust, most of them work well for 30+ years with complete negligence.

How's the sourcing of accident repair parts going? Headlights you might be able to get from Germany, some of our forum members have some in stock, and they should fit well to the US models. Can get the EUDM corner lights as well.

Hallo allerseits,

Die Original-B12-GTI Nebelscheinwerfer sind ja nicht immer ganz einfach zu bekommen. Ich bin daher am überlegen, ob es vielleicht andere Möglichkeiten gibt.

Hier in Japan gibt es hin und wieder Nebelscheinwerfer von der Firma IKI 2044, die von der Form her ganz ähnlich aussehen.

Wenn ich es auf meinen Bildern richtig entziffere, hat der Original-B12-Scheinwerfer die Kennzeichnung "IKI 2045", also klingt das schonmal sehr ähnlich.

Sind Nebelscheinwerfer ähnlich wie normale Scheinwerfer auf die Fahrtrichtung eingestellt? Wenn nicht, könnte man vielleicht die Gehäuse vom (leichter zu findenden) IKI-2044 mit den EU-Streuscheiben verbauen.

Unterschiede, die ich feststellen konnte:

- Der IKI-2045 hat eine E4 Kennzeichnung, der IKI-2044 nicht.

Ich habe heute das Radio getestet, dass in den 86 kommt. Der 86 hat einen Doppel-DIN Schacht. Oben kommt dieses Kassettendeck rein, unten ein CD Spieler der ersten Generation von Alpine. Da die Radios vom 1989 nicht so viel Power haben, kommt noch ein kleiner moderner Verstärker dahinter.

Beide Einheiten funktionieren ohne Probleme. Keine Reparaturen notwendig.